We arrived in Jakarta’s polluted and overcrowded streets in pitch darkness. Splashing Telia through unidentified murky puddles whilst dodging notoriously aggressive traffic for the 20kms from the ferry docks into the town centre the contrast to Singapore couldn’t have seemed greater. We were definitely still in Asia! Spending the next four days grappling with the baffling Indonesian shipping bureaucracy we could have been forgiven for feeling ‘stuck’ in this city that our travel guidebook recommended we find a way out of as soon as possible; but Jakarta turned out to be an unlikely gem. Once out of the single street that seemed to house most of the tourists and travellers we were met by wondrously friendly people who welcomed us as we explored the vibrant, if mucky, streets still clutching onto their crumbling dutch colonial past.